China, Beneath a September Sky
On the morning of September 11, 2001
I folded shirts into a suitcase
and China into a list of names:
Beijing, Xi’an, Guilin,
the Yangtze, Chengdu, Shanghai,
Hong Kong bright at the water’s edge.
I imagined red gates opening,
stone courtyards holding imperial weather,
a wall combing the mountains,
dynasties breathing through lacquer and dust.
Then the towers fell.
Two planes.
Two towers.
Thousands who went to work
and never came home.
We tried to cancel,
but the trip was nonrefundable. So we went.
a door we could no longer close.
I remember the strange guilt
of boarding an airplane
when airplanes had become
symbols of terror.
I wondered whether courage was motion,
or fear carried forward.
Ten flights stitched us across the country,
shoulder to shoulder with strangers—
families, workers, elders, children—
and once, caged birds trembling beneath our seats.
I watched them
and thought about freedom,
and how little it takes
for the human heart to become afraid.
Beyond the glass,
China refused a single face:
vendors calling over silver fish and ginger,
silk glowing beside patched coats,
minarets and temple roofs, farm paths and neon,
old stones watching glass towers rise.
I bought black freshwater pearls—
a bracelet, earrings, a necklace—
less than a hundred dollars.
I thought I was buying jewelry.
I did not know I was choosing
something dark, small, and enduring
to carry home.
Before the Terracotta Warriors,
in their silent ranks,
thousands of faces
made by hands two thousand years ago.
In Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter,
steam lifted from lamb and cumin;
vendors measured the day in handfuls,
voices braided through the dusk.
I scrutinized those ancient faces
and thought of New York—
of families searching for faces
beneath the ruins,
of names becoming photographs,
photographs becoming memories.
I asked what survives us:
the face, the name, or the love that keeps naming.
In Guilin, karst peaks rose from mist
like dark brushstrokes on silk;
fishermen crossed the river’s pale breath,
their boats writing brief sentences in water.
In Chengdu, tea cooled beneath plane trees;
in Shanghai, towers burned against evening;
in Hong Kong, ferries combed the harbor with light.
Everywhere, life spoke in another cadence—
Mandarin, Cantonese, market cries, temple bells—
and the hardest truth was its continuance.
Markets opened.
Boats moved.
Children laughed.
Planes rose.
Life continued
with the unbearable confidence
of life itself.
I began to see that continuance
could be both wound and mercy.
Meanwhile, across the Pacific,
America was digging through ash.
Families waited for calls
that would never come.
Firefighters and police
walked toward the flames
while others ran away.
I was thousands of miles from home,
walking through ancient cities
while my country was learning to grieve.
But grief has no geography.
It followed me through China—
through Beijing,
across the rivers,
onto every crowded flight.
I returned with black pearls
in my suitcase,
but they were not what I brought home.
Home had become less a place
than the measure of what absence leaves.
I brought home an understanding:
an ocean can separate countries,
but it cannot separate human hearts.
The river still moves.
The markets still open.
The planes still rise.
Morning still comes.
That is not forgetting.
It is carrying.
We carry the names.
The families.
The silence after the noise.
The ones who ran toward the fire.
The ones who never came home.
We carry September.
I have come to believe remembrance
is not an anchor, but a compass—
it does not hold us in the past;
it asks what direction love will take.
And wherever we go,
it goes with us.
I left Hawaii believing
I was going to see China.
Instead, China showed me
not one China, but many:
red walls and river mist,
prayer and bargaining, silk and steel,
a thousand ways to enter morning.
I understood then how travel changes us:
not by answering grief,
but by enlarging the silence around it.
The Yangtze kept moving beneath us,
bearing silt, rain, voices, centuries.
I moved with it, though part of me remained
under that September sky,
I still ask what it means to continue
when the world has divided into before and after.
learning that to go on
is not to leave the lost behind,
but to carry them differently.
